Day 10 – Rainbow Ribbons, Cat Conventions, and Climbing Toward Austerity
March 17, 2025
🛌 Old Lady Vibes and a Stubborn Body
Getting out of bed today sounded like a haunted rocking chair orchestra. I moved like someone three times my age—stiff, achy, and deeply overconfident about my legs' ability to support me. I stood up too fast, immediately regretted it, and nearly hit the floor. We’re off to a strong start. My legs are done.
🌈 Temple 22: Rainbows, Rock Steps, and the Great Cat Council
Temple 22 greeted me with ribbons like a zipper connecting the temple gate straight up into the main shrine. It was beautiful and a bit mysterious. I noticed people placing coins on the steps, so I did too. I wish the temple website wasn’t broken—I’d love to know what it meant. But sometimes, mystery is part of the magic.
Speaking of magic—cats. Everywhere.
It was like a feline flash mob. I stood and watched as they silently gathered from all directions into a single patch of grass for what I can only assume was a serious morning briefing. The cat in a circle facing each other. After 10 minutes of intense cat-eye contact, they all quietly disbanded. One went off to sunbathe, another to chase birds. It was like Ocean’s Eleven with whiskers.
🧘♀️ Meditation and Emotional Shifts
Inside the temple, I meditated on healing. I sat with my sadness for a while—and then released it. I imagined what a monk might tell me: “Attachment is pain.” So I let go. I forgave myself for whatever guilt I was clinging to. And honestly? It worked.
Maria showed up just after, and gave me one of her perfect, tight hugs. Not those flimsy side-hugs. No. This was a "you’re safe, I see you, you matter" kind of hug.
🙈 Monkey Madness, Dog Drama, and the Tunnel Playlist
Walking onward, I spotted a gang of monkeys. Just as they noticed me, a neighborhood dog came charging out barking like he was defending national treasure. Chaos erupted. Monkey shrieks, dog yelps, the sound of tree branches snapping. Honestly, hope nobody got hurt but it didn’t sound goos.
I encountered walking through my first tunnel. Note to self: tunnels here are loud. Next time: noise-canceling headphones.
🚿 Superhero Rest Stop + Random Trail Kindness
I found an epic rest stop: hot shower, great toilet, phone charging, free coffee. Absolute luxury. I changed into my white Henro robe for the first time in days and felt like Superman putting on his cape. Someone even left helpful maps and local guide info. I scribbled a thank-you note and left my card in the visitor book.
A woman approached to check if I knew where I was going. In Japanese translation from Google, she said “I know the way,” which actually meant, “Do you know the way?” I nodded and kept walking, touched by her concern. People are so willing to help Henros.
🥾 Uphill Redemption and Caribbean Dreams
To make up for skipping a mountain yesterday, I took a harder trail today. Huffing, puffing, and swearing under my breath, I sang a sont to Kobo Daishi like a tone-deaf war cry. I told myself at every turn: “Is there more uphill?” The answer was always: yes. I eventually got bored of asking. That was my lesson for the day. There will alway be more uphill so I should stop asking.
Then—the beach.
The ocean stretched out in postcard perfection. Sparkling blue, soft waves in little coves. I honestly could’ve been in the Caribbean. It was that beautiful.
Maria caught up again, and we had a sweet chat about her kids and everything we’d experienced the past day. Oh—and the manhole covers in this city? Sea turtles. I’m obsessed. Apparently each city in Japans manhole covers are decorated differently.
🕯️ Temple Time and My First Souvenir
At sunset when I reached temple 24 temple, I finally caved and bought something—a beautiful oversized incense stick. I wanted to ring the big bell too, but it was tied up for the night. The monk was already cleaning up, so I skipped the candles and incense lighting.
Instead, I took my mountain of small coins and gave one to every little Jizo statue I saw. Felt right. This temple was a huge milestone in my journey. I was officially 1/4 of the way done.
🏨 Hostel Life, Language Wins, and Lantern Light
The hostel was basic but tried hard to be hip and cozy. I liked it. Cats everywhere (again). The host spoke excellent English—better than anyone I’ve met so far—and I wanted to ask him a million questions… but didn’t. Maybe tomorrow.
Took a hot shower, met my roommate (we’re in a heater drama—his side of the room was cold but my bed was directly under the heater),
I walked across the street to dinner and used my best “Itadakimasu” before eating. There was a pause. Then a smile. I think she liked it. Or maybe she was just processing what the heck I said. Either way: progress!
🌕 Closing the Chapter: Awakening Complete
On my walk back, I saw the temple glowing on the hillside, lanterns lighting up the path like something out of a Studio Ghibli movie. Back in bed, I looked it up: I’ve officially completed the “Awakening” section of the pilgrimage.
Next up? Austerity.
(A quick Google confirmed that yes—it means suffering. Cool.)
