Day 16 – Sewn Together by a Stranger, Unraveled by a Taxi

March 24, 2025

🌅 Morning Mood & Market Dreams

I had a good feeling about today. There were a lot of temples on the agenda, and I was hoping to squeeze in a stop at the market for lunch—maybe a bit ambitious, but the goal was set.

Started off strong heading toward Temple 28. Just outside, I noticed a little Henro supply shop. My cheap Henro prayer bag was splitting at the seams, so I popped in, thinking I’d just replace it and grab some new incense and candles. Never thought I’d need refills since I started with so many, but here we are. It’s kind of exciting actually—like proof I’ve really been walking.

The woman who ran the shop was immediately sweet and lively, joking with me via Google Translate. She kept talking about sewing and at first, I thought she was telling me to sew it myself—which was a laugh since I don’t even know how to thread a needle. But then I realized: she was offering to sew it for me. I asked how long it’d take, and she said “three minutes.” She disappeared upstairs and was back in under two, bag perfectly stitched. I was so happy. I tried to take a picture with her, but she said she felt too ugly today. Total bummer, she would’ve been the star of the post.

Temple 28 had no guard statues at the main gate —seemed like it was under construction—but the energy was still good. I did my routine, got my stamp, and headed out for the long walk to Temple 29.

🥵 Heat, Bugs, and Reflections

My phone’s been randomly showing me old memories, especially ones of my grandparents. I’ve been thinking of my grandma a lot lately—it’s hard not to feel like she’s walking with me somehow. I’m taking it as a little sign.

Also: I reek. I've been putting off laundry and today is the day I regretted that. Walking through a field for 35 minutes I realized it was absolutely swarming with tiny black bugs—maybe gnats? Not biting, but crawling. Disgusting.

Still, there are little comforts. Like the bathrooms: usually a men’s and women’s option, but also a big, unisex “Henro-friendly” stall—huge and clean. It’s the little things.

At Temple 29, the head monk was out in his full formal robes. People were flocking, bowing, snapping pics—total rockstar energy. I bowed extra hard, and took a sneaky picture of him from behind a tree.

🚕 Taxi Guilt & Messed-Up Timing

Mistake of the day: not booking enough time in this city. There are too many temples, too far apart. I ended up taking a taxi from Temple 30—not like the earlier taxis, which were part of a strategic skip. This one was indulgent. I just didn’t want to walk anymore. And I felt guilt.

The market I’d been so excited for? Total bust. It’s more of a night thing, apparently. Gyoza was solid, dessert was fire, but most stalls were closed. I only gave myself an hour to explore, then cabbed to Temple 31. Felt guilty the whole ride, watching other Henro sweat it out on the hill.

Got my stamp and realized it was already 4:30. No cars around. I called for another taxi, but it wouldn’t arrive for 7 minutes—and Temple 32 was still a 17-minute drive away. There was no chance I’d make it in time. I cried. I changed the destination to my accommodation. I couldn’t keep going. Today was a fail and I was ready for it to end.

Maybe it’s symbolic, like Paul said—Temple 32 is the age I am now. Maybe I wasn’t supposed to make it today. It still stings.

🧒 Girl Guides, Good Tea, & Evening Lessons

When I got to my lodging, an 8-year-old girl greeted me and gave me the full tour, since her grandma doesn’t speak English or use much tech. She was adorable and so helpful. I asked if she could do my laundry using Google Translate and told her “it would be stinky”—she laughed. That helped.

I drank tea and watched one of the most beautiful sunsets I’ve ever seen. It helped soften the blow of the day. At dinner, I asked the girl to translate my fortune slip I grabbed at one of the temples. She said, “You are lucky.” Sure, okay. I pressed for more—“Any bad news?” She read it again and said, “If you rush, it will be bad.” Lesson. Received. That is exactly what happened today, I was too ambitious to enjoy it.

I told her she was smart, and I hoped she’d visit America someday. Her grandma smiled so big at that.

🌅 Ending on a Kinder Note

Dinner was peaceful. I did my best to let go of the guilt from earlier. Today wasn’t perfect, but it was full. Mistakes were made, lessons were learned, and kindness showed up when I needed it.

Even if I didn’t make it to 32, I’m still walking forward. Maybe tomorrow I’ll get there—with a clean bag, a better mood, and a little more grace for myself.