Day 19: The Baby, the Demon, and the Squishy Sock Revelation

March 27, 2025

🌧️ A Message in a Dream

Last night I had a dream where I was walking on the trail and asked into the void “why am I here"?”, and a voice answered simply: “to get better at noticing.”
Apparently, I’m not so good at that. I’m usually go-go-go, tunnel vision on the next step, the next stop, the next stamp. But this dream-spirit told me I needed to practice noticing. It felt important, like something Kobo Dashi might’ve said to me. Maybe it was him.

🚆 Germs, Rain & An Accidental Ceremony

I woke to heavy rain and a 45-minute walk to the station. Bought the wrong train ticket (of course), had to pay extra for the express, and sat in a car full of sneezing, snotty people coughing up lung butter.
Still—somehow—I'm not sick. 🙏

Got off after just one stop (a ten-minute ride that saved me three hours of wet hiking). Still, I was nervous about hiking into the mountains in the rain. I gave myself an hour and some food to decide whether to walk or just… take the train again.

🛕 The Cat, the Priest, and My 15 Minutes of Shame

Since I had time to kill, I visited a small shrine I’d starred on my map. Two scary-looking demon paintings greeted me at the entrance—apparently guardians of fisherman luck and spirit-banishing duties.

Just as I was taking off my shoes to enter, a woman with an umbrella walked up holding… a cat. Not a carrier. Just holding a wet cat in her arms like a baby. I think she saved it from the rain. We shared a little moment—I offered the cat some dry food from my pouch, she laughed and bowed, and then disappeared.

Feeling good, I entered the shrine to meditate for 15 minutes, but about two minutes in, the shrine priest came running at me like I’d committed a federal crime. Big X hand motions. “Forbidden!”
Okay fine. I’ll meditate outside… in the rain… standing. Set my timer and told myself: if I can stand still for 15 minutes, I can climb that mountain.

With my eyes closed I heard people taking off their shoes. Talking. A baby cooing. I was mad - why were they permitted to be inside this temple when I was banished to stand outside?

I opened my eyes right as my timer went off to find a full-blown christening ceremony happening. The priest came out in formal robes and began waving a mop-like blessing wand over a tiny baby’s head while chanting deep, eerie mantras. Standing there in the rain looking at those proud parents holding their child and blessing it was one of the most powerful things I have ever seen. It also felt very intimate that I was there. Just a baby, a priest, a mother and father, and me to witness this moment.

So… yeah. I guess that’s why I got kicked out. Fair.

🍣 Trust the Locals. Always.

I headed to the market to warm up and was initially disappointed—only a handful of stalls were open. But then I saw a line forming at one place, so I lined up too. (Golden rule: if locals queue, you do too.) Turned out it was a raw fish counter, which I wasn’t craving… but wow. Best sashimi I’ve had in Japan. Tender, buttery, perfect.

⛰️ Into the Mountain with Candy and Crabs

Next came the trail. Some sweet men handed me hard candies, ¥200 coins, and—my favorite gift—a Ziploc bag. (You’d be surprised how often that comes in handy.)

The trail was steep, rainy, and full of aggressive tiny red crabs who would try to fight me like little drunken bouncers. I admired their energy, but bro I could easily step on you.

At one point, I had to walk over logs and stream crossings that made me nervous esperically since it was wet, but I stayed focused. At the top, I felt amazing. Sweaty, but mentally clear. That Kobo Dashi knew what he was doing—hard climbs make the best meditation.

📸 A Family Photo and a Final Soaking

On the long, paved walk into town, a family asked me to take a group photo, then invited me into one with them, which was really sweet. Moments like that recharge me.

Then, two minutes—literally two minutes—before reaching my hotel, my shoes gave up their waterproof powers and rain squished into my socks like a curse from the trail gods. I was lucky I didn’t have much longer to go.

🛁 Wet Henro, Warm Bath, and a Giant Room

The hotel worker seemed very distressed by how wet I was. I explained that Henro don’t carry umbrellas and she just sighed and pointed to the changing area. She was kind, but clearly not thrilled to mop up behind me.

My room? Huge. Unexpectedly luxurious. The bath had a yuzu bomb that smelled divine. I relaxed, stretched, and prepped for dinner.

🧘‍♀️ Final Thought: Why Are You Doing This?

During meditation I thought about whether I’m leaning too far into comfort lately. Less challenge, more convenience. I have the freedom to make this pilgrimage whatever I want—but I keep thinking of Kobo Dashi. Would he frown at me texting while I walk? Would he approve of me breaking trail etiquette with sushi and naps? I don’t have the answers, but I’m starting to notice the questions.

So maybe the dream was right.