Day 13 – Signs, Silence, and Sweet Oranges
🌅 Sunrise Soft Like Cotton Candy
I woke up to catch the sunrise, and wow—cotton candy skies. That soft pastel pink that feels like the sky is whispering. I stayed wrapped up in my covers, watching the other hotel guests head out to the beach while I enjoyed it from my room. Magical and… warm.
🔁 Japan Has a Sign for Everything
One thing I’ve realized about Japan: if you wait 30 seconds, there will be a sign. I don’t mean spiritual signs—I mean literal, laminated, highly specific signs.
Can’t flush a toilet? There’s a sign for that.
Don’t know how to order ramen? Sign.
Stuck on how to open a gate, ring a bell, or even sit? Sign.
Japan is the land of “Don’t panic, we already thought of that.”
🏙️ Development vs. Dirt Roads
I kept thinking about something Mark said yesterday, about how much of Japan has been paved over—how much wild land is gone. It’s bittersweet. But is it fair for us, as outsiders, to expect an entire nation to stay undeveloped just so we can enjoy the charm of dirt roads and rice paddies? People live here. Modernization is complicated.
📸 Picture-Perfect and Social Media Famous
The hotel girl was so sweet. She tried to help me book a stay but it didn’t work out. Before I left, she asked to take a photo of me outside—and that’s happened like five times now. I think I’m on several obscure Japanese Facebook pages as “Foreign Henro #2.” Honestly? I’m honored.
🚶♀️ Zoning Out on a One-Road Day
I love days like this. Just one road the whole time. No map-checking, no backtracking. Just walk. Zone out. Think. Meditate. Sing. Daydream.
This was my longest day yet—almost 20 miles—and I knew I’d be walking until sunset. A little scary, but at least there was no dinner reservation to rush to. (Silver linings.)
🧠 The Rachel Booking Process™
People keep asking how I book places. Here's my system:
Check distance. How far do I want to go today?
Look at terrain (blue elevation lines = pain).
Cross-reference with sightseeing stars I’ve dropped on Google.
Use Henro Helper to find nearby accommodations.
Stalk each one on Google for photos, food, and vibes.
Narrow it down to top 2-3 picks.
If I can’t book it myself, I flag it for someone to help later.
Once booked, I delete the others so my map stays clean.
At the end of this pilgrimage, I’ll have a perfect trail of pins marking every stay. A breadcrumb path of memories.
🔔 Ringless Bells & Quiet Strength
I get so disappointed when the temple bell is tied up and I can’t ring it. That thud of the bell is such a good way to release tension. This one was off-limits.
Temple 26 was steep but mercifully quick. And the smell inside? Indescribable. Like cedar and mystery and holy air. I translated to the monk: “It smells good.” He looked at me like I told him I wanted to marry the incense. Noted.
Pro tip: going uphill? Don’t look. I wore my baseball cap low today to block the view of the climb. Out of sight, out of panic. It helped.
🧍♀️ Quiet Rachel vs. LA Rachel
I’ve been thinking a lot about who I am when I’m alone. Out here, I feel… wholesome. Thoughtful. Connected.
But when I walk with others, I become LA Rachel. Loud. Swearing. Making sarcastic jokes. I’m not sure which one is real—but I like Quiet Rachel more right now.
🍊 A Man, An Orange, A Moment
I passed an old man selling oranges by the road. I walked up, unsure if I could buy just one. He smiled, handed me one for free, and said something in Japanese. I translated it—“Home accommodation.”
I think he meant, “Take one for where you're staying too.” Then he handed me a second orange. I nearly cried.
🦵 Morning Legs & Distance Records
Every morning, I forget I can’t walk. I stand up too fast and almost collapse. It takes 15 minutes before my legs remember they have muscles.
But today? Today was a personal best: almost 20 miles. I even debated going a little farther just to round it out. (I didn’t. I’m not that unhinged.)
☎️ Solo Victory: I Made a Call!
Big milestone: I made my first reservation all by myself. I called, spoke slowly, and got the job done. No crying. No panic. Just one determined Rachel with a phone and a dream.
