Day 14 – Blind Cats, Uphill Life Lessons & Marching to the Pink Pony Club
March 22, 2025
🐱 Beach Cats and Eye Drops I Don’t Have
This morning’s walk along the beach hit me hard—emotionally, not physically (yet). I came across a cluster of stray cats, most with terrible eye infections, and one whose eye was entirely red. Possibly blind. They didn’t even flinch when I walked up… probably couldn’t see me.
It was heartbreaking. I wanted to scoop them up, clean their faces, and nurse them back to health. Next stop: tuna cans at Lawson’s. I swear. Next time I’ll come armed with soft food and maybe some Neosporin.
🧠 Mood Mapping: The Walker's Emotional Cycle
I spent a good chunk of the walk thinking about how my mood fluctuates throughout the day. Here’s how it usually goes:
Step One – Feeling confident, full of energy. “I am a powerful pilgrim goddess.”
10 minutes later – Backpack heavy, dread creeping in. “How many miles again?”
Midday – Staring at the map, regretting everything. “Still 4 hours left??”
2/3 Mark – Trance state. Zoning out. Meditating. Forgotten the pain.
Last push – Rage. Sarcasm. Anger. Bargaining with the universe. Legs = rebellion.
Rinse and repeat.
🥾 Temple 27: Entering Through the Exit (Strategically)
I approached Temple 27 backwards, entering through the exit. That always bothers me since because coming through the entrance is proper, and I need to bow at the main gate.
I prefer paved paths over forest trails. I know, I know—nature’s great. But ankle-twisting rocks and sneaky leaves? Not for me. Pavement still counts as outdoors. Let’s not gatekeep hiking.
🍱 Crankiness Cure: Snack Now, Regret Less
Another lesson learned: If I’m feeling cranky, even if I think I’m not hungry… I’m definitely hungry. Low blood sugar is a sneaky little liar. Its also wild how many calories I am burning, I feel like my stomach is still full from the last meal, but my body still needs more food for energy. A rice triangle and a sit-down later, I feel reborn. I have learned so much about listening to my body.
👣 Meeting Paul: Four-Time Pilgrim Philosopher
On the way up, I ran into Paul—a 75-year-old Henro legend from Houston TX. This is his fourth time walking the 88 temples. First time? When he was 50.
He told me something that stuck to my ribs like spiritual mochi:
“Most people live to 88 if you are lucky. Look at every temple as a year in a human lifetime. The terrain mimics what is typically happening in life around that age. Puberty’s Temple 12 is the first big mountain. Mid-life crisis is 36 where there the trail splits into many options. Temple 88 is the most difficult and intense incline. Probably because death is difficult. And after you finish, you loop back to Temple 1 and become reborn. He said every year after struggling through the climb to 88 he convinces himself that will be the last time, but by the time he reaches Temple 1 again he sighs and realized “would do that all again.”
Chills. Deep. Also, he looked exactly like Gandhi. Not important, but worth noting. He walked along side of me, imparted his wisdom, then vanished up the hill. Like a dream. I still don’t know if he was actually real.
🧘 Meditation, Monkeys, and Mountain Logic
At the top, I met up with Maria and a new British friend, then wandered off to the inner temple—because if I already hiked the whole mountain, might as well do the bonus level.
I meditated alone for 15 minutes. Peaceful. Until I remembered… monkeys.
There was a sign: “Watch for monkeys.” But what does that mean?! Don’t engage? Don’t challenge? Do I sing to them? I opted for no eye contact, no sudden movements, and no snacks visible. Seemed to work.
🕓 The Great 4PM Mystery
I’ve noticed something spooky: No matter how far I walk, I always finish around 4PM. Five miles? Four o’clock. Eighteen miles? Still four o’clock. It’s like this walk is governed by some ancient pilgrim curse.
🧍♂️ Cultural Confusion: Come Here vs. Go Away
A man handed me water and used that classic Japanese hand gesture that looks like “go away,” but really means “come here.” It threw me off. I started walking away out of reflex and then felt rude when I realized. Miscommunication: the unofficial 89th temple. I received a pilgrim gift almost every other day.
🐈⬛ Mood Saved by Tongue-Out Kitty and Screaming Raccoon Dog
Later, just as I hit a low, I saw a cat letting me pet it—with its tongue hanging out the whole time. Elite cuteness.
Then a raccoon dog scurried across the road. Japan’s weird wildlife never lets me spiral for too long.
🏪 Lawsons = Church
Hit Lawson’s on the way into town. Didn’t realize how hungry I was until I bought almost everything. Do I regret it? Not even a little.
Met up with Maria for a quick sit and a complaint session about our feet. Her hotel was two blocks away. Mine? Thirty-eight more minutes. That walk might have taken me an hour. Felt like 3.
🎶 Pink Pony Club on Repeat
My walking brain has an annoying habit: earworms. Today’s soundtrack was Pink Pony Club on repeat for four hours. Why Christmas songs also pop up, I’ll never know—but I blame the march-like rhythm.
🌀 Today’s big reminder: Life’s emotional mountain is full of cranky climbs, sugary cats, and deep conversations with people who look like Gandhi. Keep walking. The tune changes eventually.
