Day 3: Crying in the Rain, Chanting with Strangers, and the Temple Cat Who Found Me
March 10th 2025
Today continue walking.
And today I also eat a raw egg. Which, by the way, I did not see coming. I cracked it expecting a hard-boiled situation and got slimy surprise soup. I scooped out the whites because texture matters and used just the yolk, but with soy sauce and rice? Not bad. Not bad at all.
Bandaged my blistered heels like a war-hardened worrier, paid my stay (not forgetting this time), and the innkeeper lady stood outside and bowed deeply as I left — a small gesture that somehow felt huge.
⛩️ Temple Talk: Tears, Demons, and DIY Stamp Desks
Quick walk to Temple 6, but I was sad to realize I forgot to start my tracking app. First rainy trek — romantic in theory, damp in practice. But honestly? Kind of cozy. I am from Seattle so it was a little nostalgic. I miss the rain in Seattle sometimes.
Temple 6 had luxurious bathrooms, and I had a deeply spiritual raw egg poop. Then I wandered into the second prayer hall and stumbled upon an old couple chanting. Something about their rhythm hit me deep — I cried a little.
At temple 7 I explored the grounds and wondered into a secluded room with Then I saw a demon statue in the corner. Last year I went to Peru and did Ayahuasca. The experience was extremely powerful and long story short I did a lot of work work with my demons. Seems like they followed me here too.
Figured out how to get change from the stamp desk, which was a self-service situation and made me feel like a genius. Ran into the Turkish girl who was staying at the same place last night. She seemed kind of... not into talking. Maybe her English is just limited.
More osamefuda slips. More writing my name. More asking: Who am I and why am I here? And also: How many times can I write “Rachel, March 2025, Los Angeles, Purpose.”
🦶 Blister Report & Wandering Thoughts
Walking today felt heavier — not sure if it was the rain, my legs, or my mood. But I was so happy when lunchtime hit. I’m still in a city-ish area, so food options are solid. Went to what might’ve been the best ramen place of my life. Unclear if I was just starving or if I actually ascended.
Repeatedly bumped into the Turkish girl and it got... weird. Like, yes, hi again. Still the same person. Still walking. I feel like that is going to happen a lot on this trip when you are walking a similar pace with people, you run into to them several times in one day.
Japanese people all have perfect posture. Exhausted from the long walk I’m out here leaning on every fence post like a damp scarecrow. I fee like I stick out as a sloppy tourist.
✨ Weird & Wonderful Moments
There’s something wild about leaving at 7am and not returning until 5pm. It’s like being a kid again, when the whole day was playtime and no one expected you to sit at a desk and be “productive.” My feet hurt, but I’m alive in a way that screens can’t deliver.
At Temple 9, I couldn’t find the bell. AGAIN. I read you need to ring it when you first arrive otherwise it is bad luck. After 15 minuets of exploring the temple I heard someone ring it off in the distance and felt both jealous and spiritually inadequate. Next watched someone’s candle burn all the way out. The little puff of smoke at the end made me oddly sad — like a reminder that all things end, even tiny flames. That person had lit prayed here and lit a candle, and now they were gone, and so was what they left behind.
Feeling emotional I read one of the sweet cards Reece and Sabrina made me. Reece’s just said “I love you,” which hit hard. Then — temple magic — the temple cat appeared. People were chasing her, but she came straight to me. Let me pet her. Trusted me. It felt like a benediction.
I found a window labeled with a sign I translated to say the Buddha inside heals all illnesses. I dropped a coin in the box and whispered a little prayer.
Asked the monk what the cat’s name was. Through Google Translate, I got something like “Tori Chow.” A real cutie, I recommend petting.
🍜 Nightcap: Meditation, Meat, and the Darkness Test
Temple 10 was a climb. A real hamstring challenge moment. Big hill, then the stairs. I downed a bottle of water at the top like a cartoon character.
Meditated next to the main temple. My back was screaming. I focused on the pain, watched it like an observer. The more I paid attention to it, the less it hurt. Another lesson provided by this journey.
Right as I was finishing, it started to rain again. Kobo Daishi (founder of the pilgrimage) sending a final challenge? Probably. I stayed until the very end, dripping and stubborn.
At dinner time the ramen spot I’d been dreaming about was closed. Crushed. But down the street, I found a little rowdy BBQ place that looked like a fun dive bar. The woman had me order on an app that auto-translated, but I still ended up with just sliced beef. No rice. Still good. Also, horse meat was on the menu. I… passed but that did sound very interesting.
Walk back to my stay was pitch-black and kinda spooky. No lights. Just my tiny headlamp, trees, and vibes. A real test of courage. I realized I didn’t feel scared in the same way I do walking at night in Los Angeles. I wasn’t worried some guy was going to drive by and attack me. Japan has an extremely low crime rate, even more so on Shikoku. It was more, eire, more ghosty and creepy. I felt physically but still so uneasy.
📊 Day 3 Summary
Spiritual Enlightenment: 7.5/10 (the cat bumped me up)
Blisters: Holding steady at 2
Turkish Girl Encounters: 4 (too many?)
Demon Statues That Made Me Cry: 1
Temple Cats Who Chose Me: 1 perfect angel
Horse Eaten: 0
Dark Walk Spook Factor: 9/10
