Day 4: My First Ossetai, A Trail of Coins, and the Phantom Whiskey Lounge
☀️ Slow Mornings & 7-Eleven Gourmet
Woke up rested and winning—I’ve been getting 9 to 10 hours of sleep every single night and honestly? I’m thriving. Took my time with emails and Instagram posts before heading out at 9am (luxury!). Tried to book my next stay through my current host, but no luck. Its really been a struggle I am realizing things are very booked up.
So I wandered to 7-Eleven and curated a breakfast you to try: egg sandwich, tuna sushi roll, ramen, and green tea. Peak pilgrim cuisine. Don’t knock it ‘til you’ve hiked on it.
🌾 Fields, Ducks & Backpack Tweaks
The trail started out dreamy—open fields, breezy air, and the kind of scenery that makes you want to reflect on life. I saw a duck trapped in a storm drain and my heart broke. He seemed so scared and helpless and I couldn’t do anything to fix it. I whispered a prayer and kept going. Did the duck seem like a bigger deal since I was so venerable? Far from home an all alone on this walk was I the duck?
I made some strategic backpack adjustments (read: cinched it like a boss) and instantly felt the difference in my neck. Pro tip: if your gear hurts, pause and fix it. There’s no badge of honor for suffering.
🎁 My First Ossetai: Kindness from a Taxi Window
A man in a taxi slowed down and handed me my very first ossetai—a small gift given to pilgrims. It was a pack of tissues, and I was ridiculously moved. He sped off before I could thank him, but I noticed a business card for his taxi service tucked in. Marketing and compassion? I’ll take it. I know it will be the first of many gifts but the first one is burned in my memory forever.
🦶Blister Drama & Abandoned-Yard First Aid
My right ankle was plotting a blister coup (again). I finally gave in and sat on what may or may not have been an abandoned property lawn to patch it up. I had to do it quickly since it is shameful in Japan to take out your nasty barefoot in public. Of course, that’s when a guy walked by and asked if I was okay. I said yes, just blister-mending. He looked unconvinced and still convinced that I was in trouble or lost my mind.
Shoutout to moleskin bandages for saving my foot—and probably my sanity.
🧘♀️ Temple 11: Meditations, Nerves & The Strong Legs Warning
Reached Temple 11 with no issues and tried to settle in for a quiet meditation. I kept nervously glancing toward the trailhead for tomorrow’s big climb. I asked Kobo Daishi to come with me—several times. I felt to afraid and alone I needed his spiritual protection. I may have begged a little.
At the trailhead, a sign read:
“Make sure you go to the bathroom.”
“5 hours for strong legs. 8 hours for weak feet.”
I wonder what catigory my legs are in. Pulled an “feel good” slip I brought from home that Reece and Sabrina made me to help through emotion moments. It said, “I believe in you.” I nearly teared up. Perfect timing.
💰 Temple Coin Fate & Two Very Intentional Offerings
I had a pocket full of 30–40 tiny yen coins in my purse, but somehow pulled out a full 100 yen coin at the main temple—a much bigger offering than planned. Fate? Probably. Then I did it again at the second hall. What are the odds? If the universe wants me to give, I’m giving. With tomorrows huge mountain ahead I need to buy some good grace with the spirits.
🥃 The Whiskey Lounge That Time Forgot
Next stop: the visitor center that promised “Free Wi-Fi.” I showed up, questions pre-translated, ready for answers—and found… no one. But it was adorable! DIY everything: maps, books, trail guides, and in the corner, a ¼ full bottle of Johnnie Walker Blue just sitting there. Next to a mystery liquor. No sign. No humans. Just “help yourself”. Hell yeah.
🍊 Oranges, Cigarettes & Waiting for Check-In
Arrived early at my Temple 11 lodging and had time to kill before check in. The outdoor lounge has a comfy couch, a “please take one” basket of oranges, and a tray of cigarettes. I don’t smoke, but after today’s walk, I stared at that tray for a long time thinking if I should smoke one just for fun.
Check-in wasn’t for another 40 minutes, so I wrote, stretched, and debated lighting one just for the experience a few more times. (Don’t worry. I didn’t. Yet.)
👵 Two Grandmas, One Blessing
Two older ladies walked up and started chatting in Japanese. I reached for Google Translate, and we had the usual comedy of errors as they didn’t realize they could speak into it. Still, we got through.
They asked if I was alone (yes), if I was American (guilty), and finally said “Good luck” before continuing on. I don’t know why, but that hit hard. It was clear they were locals who where familiar with how difficult this journal will be, so “good luck” seemed to carry a lot more meaning coming from them. Sometimes the simplest things carry the most weight.
✨ Final Thoughts: Trail Signs & Cosmic Encouragement
Today was full of little signs—from temple coins to tissue packs to two kind strangers reminding me that even if you’re walking solo, you’re not alone.
Tomorrow is my hardest day yet. But I’ve got moleskin, Kobo Daishi, and the memory of two grannies telling me I’ve got this.
At night before everyone at the hostel was buzzing with energy about tomorrows climb. The first big mountain. I have my alarm set early. I close my eyes worried I might not have what it takes. 4,000 ft up tomorrow and I don’t really know what to expect.
