Day 7 – Shibus, Sushi, and a Well Full of Wishes

March 15, 2025

🥢 The Rice Men and the Silent Swiss

At breakfast, I noticed a pattern: the men are deeply committed to their rice. Two, sometimes three refills. Meanwhile, I was doing my best protein-forward plan and nearly cleaned out the entire fish tray.

The tall Swiss guy I met before came down for breakfast, but he looked like a sentient ghost of someone who used to be a morning person. We both ended up staying at the same lodging, which honestly made me proud. He walks way faster than me, and yet… there I was. Slow and steady doesn't finish last. We just take snack breaks.

Got a bit of a late start today because I was on the phone with my mom until about 8:30. Worth it.

🐈 Cat Alley and the Great Bird Rescue

On the way to Temple 14, the cat population exploded. I must’ve passed 10 cute neighborhood cats, but petting was off the table. A sacred "no-touch" rule hung in the air, probably enforced by the feline union.

Highlight of the walk? Accidentally saving a bird's life. A cat was full-on stalking it, but my surprise appearance distracted the predator just long enough for the bird to live another day. You're welcome, little guy.

Also saw at least ten Shiba Inus, including one breeder who had them lined up like fluffy security guards. Japan is Shibu Central and I’m not mad about it.

🎓 The Cutest Dog School… Is a Funeral Home?

At one point, I came across a sign with adorable cartoon dogs and assumed, “Oh yay! A dog school!” Turns out - It was not a dog school.

Google translate revealed It was… a pet funeral home. The plot twist nearly broke me.

I did see a very sweet dog sleeping outside and was tempted to say hello, but a handy Google Translate sign read: “I bite. Don’t pet.” Roger that. That transalte app for signs is so helpful I could have lost a finger.

⛩️ Temple 14 Through the Back Door

The climb to Temple 14 was no joke—super steep, but I found myself entering through a random back entrance. I never located the real main gate, so I felt a little spiritually incomplete. No bell to ring, just me wandering in like I snuck into a sacred concert.

That said, it was beautiful. The steps were carved into natural rock and moss-covered like something from a Studio Ghibli film.

🍣 Sushi Drama & Sweet Ossetai Moments

Took a detour for conveyor belt sushi and could barely contain my excitement. I live for sushi spinning past me like edible roulette.

Before that, I got a surprise Ossetai (a pilgrim gift!)—a kind old woman handed me a hard candy as I was putting on my gloves outside a gas station. I think Grandmas having hard candy in their purse in a universal concept.

Not long after, I tried to chat with another elderly woman using my phone translator. It felt a bit rude, as always, but it’s all I have. The only thing I caught from her monologue was, “It was green,” and then I drifted off down the road. I want to communicate but also I don’t have all day.

📱 iPad Redemption & Sushi Overload

At the sushi restaurant, I got irrationally irritated when there was no WiFi—because their menu said “order from your phone.” I asked the host and he gave me a full-body NO with his arms in an X.

I stormed back to my seat, only to see… the English-language ordering iPad right in front of me. Classic. I humbled myself with six plates of sushi and moved on. I am beginning to see a pattern on this trip of “the answer is right in front of you” both physically and metaphorically.

🪞Wishes at the Well and Ghosts of Grandparents

The next temple had something special: a well of fresh water from Kobo Daishi himself. I didn’t fully understand the sign at first—some poetic mystery about wishes coming true on “a specific day”—but it felt powerful.

There was also a beautiful monument nearby, and I paused to think of my grandparents. My grandma. I think they’d be proud of me walking this pilgrimage in rain and soaked socks. I felt strong not just for me but for my entire family.

I did the prayer rounds, made a wish, and chugged a full ladle of the sacred water like it was Gatorade for the soul. No idea if I did it right—but I did it.

🧁 Cake from a Monk and a Very Long Walk

As I lingered in the temple rain, a monk walked by and handed me a little cake. No words, just cake. I choose to believe this was because he sensed my hunger and sorrow… or maybe he was like, “Girl, you look cold and confused.”

The walk to my accommodation dragged on. My feet protested. My brain was melting. But I made it. And I made a wish. And I had cake.

So really, it was kind of a perfect day.